Відео

If it's what I think it is it's just a vent line.

Thanks for that comment! I fixed it…2 N’s in the last name!! She’d need it here for a week to get the seat covers done. Usually takes 3-4days, but we book them for a full business week to be safe!

That's outside of my knowledge base for tritoons. I have seen how they're setup, but not sure on the details unfortunately.

This is with the cables not hooked up to the engine side. It will go neutral and forward but will not go reverse, cables are brand new. I took bottom plate off and the shift linkage was hitting the outer sheath and not allowing it to go back for reverse

@@bradleyhanners8161 I've never seen that before. Are you installing a BRP (Johnson/Evinrude) brand control box or an aftermarket option? And are the shift/throttle cables aftermarket brand or Johnson/Evinrude? I've seen on Mercury cables where the plastic barrel on the motor end will block the cable from shifting if not adjusted out of the way, but I've never seen something where the linkage hits the cable sheathing.

I don’t yet, but as soon as we do a double Bimini I’ll show the full install. Just not as popular of an option up here in Michigan where we beg for the hot sun all summer!!!

@@tomspontoons where can i find instructions also in Chesapeake bay md

Also, where do I find one to purchase?

@@glennshiplet931I would try reaching out to the manufacturer for instructions. Some of them link you to a video they’ve made, but not always up to date on what they’re shipping currently

@@glennshiplet931 Pontoon Stuff usually has them in stock, but it’s been hit or miss lately. Try Fence For Pontoons website too.

In a nutshell, full length with motor mount gives more buoyancy and a more consistent planing surface all the way to the propeller. Sport toons (shorter option in front of the transom) give more buoyancy to the bow, but don't offer any improvement to water flow and can cause issues with ventilation if not set up properly. This video breaks it down: ua-cam.com/video/eLdAA6lYP10/v-deo.html

I haven't done a video showing an upgraded stereo install with an amp yet. We've done a handful of them over the years, but it's not something super common for us. Essentially, it's heavy gauge wire (I think 2 gauge, but check with your particular amp) from the battery to the amp usually with a 50 amp breaker on the positive between the battery and amp. Then the speakers are wired the traditional way with 16 gauge speaker wire to the amp. The amp is then connected to the head unit with RCA cables, and power can be added to trigger on with a switch or when the stereo is turned on.

Correct. I believe that red wire is just an accessory power wire that feeds from the outboard. Honestly not even sure what you'd power with it, but adds the option as an additional power source for an accessory.

@@tomspontoons Appreciate the response sir. I'm learning a lot with your videos working on this old boat of mine. Keep up the great work!

@@BaadMotorFingerglad it’s been helpful!! We don’t plan on stopping with content!

All of your accessory positive leads should be stacked on the common post of the switch. When doing this, the battery switch is selecting which battery will power those accessories on the common post. It is not selecting which accessories receive power. Everything hooked to the common post will receive power when the switch is selecting one of the battery options or 1+2. Hope this makes sense!

I don’t sell wire harnesses, so I hope you still support my channel. I just share videos using various products on n my array of projects. You must have ordered from Pontoon Stuff? I order from their site just like everyone else. I just use their products on my customers’ boats. If you had trouble with their customer service please reach out to me via email and I’ll see what I can do for you. Their customer support is usually top notch!! TomsPontoons@gmail.com

Because it’s the “sport toon” the motor rating stays the same as the transom and structural components didn’t change. Biggest improvements would show in speed and handling if they maxed the HP rating. This was done mainly for buoyancy and dryer ride as wake surf boats are prevalent on their lake.

Absolutely make it a tritoon. Higher and dryer ride, more stability especially when loaded with people and gear. It's a win all around! Just gotta make sure it's on a bunk trailer that can have the center toon. We have other videos that talk about positioning the center toon as well to make sure you have water flowing correctly to the motor.

Gotta help educate the world of tooners out there!!!

a 13' toon with 25" diameter has got to add at least 500 lbs of buoyancy on top of the weight if the toon itself. He picked up a few MPH, but is still dialing in the prop.

All of the sheet was bought from a local Metals USA location. The issue is to make it affordable I had to buy three boats worth because of how they cut it. Ryerson will do individual sheets custom to order too, but is very expensive. I used a local metal supplier for the extrusions, tube, and other odds and ends pieces. Thanks for watching!

That'll typically work as a short term fix. My experience has been that once moisture is in there it will eventually seize up again if it sits long enough.

I try to match or exceed the gauge size of the motor battery cables. Typically I run 2 gauge or 4 gauge from each battery to the switch, and the same for my ground jumper wire. Hope this helps!

Don't worry! We put it back together making it look nicer than ever still as a double decker! Here's the full video: ua-cam.com/video/1oK4fscm_FU/v-deo.html

@@tomspontoons 😮‍💨

If it'll trim down, but not up, it's likely one of your trim solenoids. You can swap the solenoids to test if one is working as when swapped it should go up but not down. That's a pretty common issue and a quick and simple fix as they just plug and play...and not terribly expensive either!

Unfortunately it looks like they are out of stock until October. If you can wait I would say it's worth it!

@@tomspontoons thanks for the reply. I’m looking for a decent welder to learn aluminum welding with. Once I have some practice under my belt, I’m going to build one of those mini aluminum jet boats with a sea doo engine

@@Choctawhatchee_Trash The pulse MIG setup is definitely the way to go then for water tighting all the seams. I usually TIG weld the outside seams of the boats I build, but I'm confident the pulse MIG will be able to fill everything tight. Stay tuned for that and check out my boat build videos if you haven't already!

@@tomspontoons I agree pulse looks like the way to go. I’m hoping yeswelder gets this back in stock soon, I can’t justify several thousand dollars on a “name brand” pulse welder.

@@Choctawhatchee_Trash Fingers crossed for you too! I've been able to weld with a $4500 Miller TIG machine and it was nice, very smooth start ups and very consistent arc...however, with my $600 TIG machine I can weld the same stuff together and I'm not sure you'd see a huge difference. I think the pulse will help make it easier for you to learn to weld aluminum because it allows for a much slower and smoother pace moving the torch compared to a spoolgun where the speed is super critical!

Usually the only fuses run for gauges will be for a depth gauge or fish finder powered off the key on power. That’s the only time I’ve encountered fuses on a gauge panel. Otherwise outboard associated fuses are on the engine.

I think that it’s so rare that pontoons are replaced that there’s no concern there, but I see where you’re coming from. Crest has used a similar style of crossmember that’s impossible to get at hardware, and a 2005 Odyssey I’m working on currently uses square tube the same way. Usually a pontoon boat will be totaled out if there’s significant damage to a pontoon because of the replacement costs and lack of availability of matching pontoons after boats are a few years old.

@@tomspontoonsthanks for your insight. I guess I’m just going for it! Appreciate your videos

@@AdamBierly Happy to help!

Check out FenceForPontoons.com for the same Bimini and frame we installed in this video. Pontoon Stuff is out of them at the moment.

Thank you!!!

@@AndriyLegkostup Happy to help!

For a customer’s boat we recreate it the way it was from the factory unless they ask for it to be done differently. For your boat and to save yourself headache you could absolutely rivet it to the inside and add trim where needed to protect yourself and others from the sharp edge (it’s RAZOR sharp). Nothing wrong with doing it that way if you like the look and it makes your life easier!!

@@tomspontoons Thanks for the response!

@@chrisstagg8928 Happy to help!

I’ve been meaning to show a video using one of these panels with a fuse block like you’re talking about. Some folks love them, sometimes they have their own issues with corrosion and becoming a failure point. I have another video of an Amazon switch panel that has built in breakers…that’s my favorite style by far because it’s so clean and user friendly!

@tomspontoons it's obviously different to where your located to where I am here in Northern Ireland we have different things electrical wise. I am planning on using a Blue Sea Add a Battery Kit Plus thing so I can have a starter battery and a second battery to run everything else off, because the boat is parked up on my driveway it can be plugged into the garage to keep both batteries charged up so I've no worries for a day's fishing. We don't have pontoon type boats here I think our weather is to bad to have boats like that we need something with a deep v hull to cut through waves. I enjoyed the video buddy, it's good I'm thinking of when I re wire my boat this summer I want to future proof it so when i come to add things to the boat the cables i put in can support them.

@@DavidScobie You're 100% spot on. There are different ways to do each part depending if you're in freshwater vs. saltwater as well as the type of boat...and you're right just trying to do it once and get it right so that you're not chasing problems in the future. We always love when boaters outside of the pontoon world tune into the channel as a lot of the stuff we cover is applicable to any type of hull. Happy boating over in Ireland!!

www.pontoonstuff.com/tomstoons They have a store wide sale going on right now!!

Thanks for watching!

I have seen EVA foam flooring on a pontoon and it was peeling at all of the seams. Because it's in 4x8 sheets typically you'll have a handful of seams and the expansion and contraction of the wood deck leads to the foam letting go. If you were installing it on an aluminum deck or composite deck then it might work. I just prefer the one-piece woven vinyl and its durability for dogs running around, coolers and wakeboards being dragged across it, etc.

@@tomspontoonsthanks for the insight because I didn’t think about the expansion of the wood itself, hints the reason I don’t see many people discussing that option. Thanks

@@lesson2us I think that once it’s available in full sheets it bwill be used by boat manufacturers on top of aluminum or composite decks, but hard to say!

Complete kits are available at www.PontoonStuff.com/tomstoons Usually around $1500-$2000 for materials for a floor. They’ll ship it all to your doorstep no shipping charge, even for the plywood!!

Give Brad in the Parts Department at Van's Sport Center a call: 616-364-0666 They've got all the parts and pieces to get you back on the water including new and used parts and complete control boxes.

Maybe put in a wood stove for the winter months to burn it all and heat your shop.

@@kwhp1507 Haha! It’s about 10’ high right now!! Luckily we can take it to the local county dump and unload it for free. I like that idea of heating the shop with it though.

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!

What 75 hp motor is it? Year, model? Usually I’d say you need to be around 115 hp to gain the benefits from strakes, even in an 18’ boat. In the 22’ range it seems to need to be 150+ hp.

You need to have enough HP to create that torque to “lift” onto the strakes. I’d guess a 90-115 hp on that size boat.

On any of the systems I’ve worked on the neutral safety system is a loop, so it doesn’t care which wire is hooked where. Being in forward or reverse breaks the loop and disables starting abilities. Neutral position engages the switch to complete the loop.

That's really cool that it's on the primer bulb instructions...I bet most of us (me included) grab the new bulb and pitch the packaging thinking that it'll fix any problem we're having with fuel flow. And wouldn't ya know it, it was there in writing the whole time!

One of those simple things that can make all the difference!

Thank you so much!! We're starting to see more help come in for the project and every penny makes a huge difference!

Thank you so much!!

Sorry meant 2000 model.

@@swollz1 If you plan to continue using the boat as is I wouldn't be worried about the plywood for a long while if it's been garage stored and able to stay dry between uses. If you started to feel soft spots you could reassess, but that's not likely if it was that well taken care of. If you ever tear it down to replace the carpet with vinyl then I would 100% replace the plywood because you'd be that far into the project...that way you can get another 20-30 years of worry free boating with it.

Thanks! I will be sharing some videos using the YESWELDER TIG200P soon. I just got my hands on it and it's a new release for them. I've got a 10% off code for the channel (TOMSTOONS at checkout on their page) so it ends up $630 with the foot pedal, then knock 10% off and you've got the most capable and affordable aluminum setup. My first aluminum welder was a MIG spoolgun. It's not ideal for anything other than sticking stuff together that doesn't need to look pretty. My first TIG machine, which I've shown in some boat building videos, literally has one control setting (heat). This YesWelder TIG has balance and frequency settings, plus so much more. If I had to have one or the other I would pick a TIG machine because I can water-tight leaks way better, and it allows for so much more heat control on all thicknesses of aluminum. For instance, I just built wheels that attach to our chicken coup on my welding table the other day...100% used TIG for that. Cleaner, quick setup, no changing spools out, etc. Plus I was welding all sorts of different configurations and thicknesses without changing any settings, just adjusting my positioning and watching my arc. TIG is not scary to learn (unlike what a lot of old school welders told me). Just plan to buy a bunch of clean scrap and practice practice practice. The Fabricator Series on UA-cam has an amazing video for learning TIG on aluminum with drills starting from level 0 and building to everything you'd need to know!

@@tomspontoons Thanks Tom, I'm the sole machinist in my shop at my work so the scrap aluminum is very plentiful!👍

@@skylark4901 ​​⁠I bet I had 10 hours into just dinking around with running beads on flat aluminum, butt joints, lap joints, and inside/outside corners before I touched a real project with TIG. Worth it though!!

@@tomspontoons No doubt, well the fact that I work with mostly aluminum I really should know how to weld it by now, good skill to add to my resume so to speak, plus me and a couple friends are always building minibikes and go-carts and making everything to go together with nuts and bolts gets a little tedious!😆

@@skylark4901 I think about it all the time, the stuff I used to bolt or rivet together that should have been welded! It's a really cool skill to get dialed in if you're around boats, but I end up using it for all sorts of stuff. My father in law brought me a cast aluminum Kohler engine the other day to try to weld up because the crank case is leaking oil. I told him no promises, but I'll sure give it a shot. The risk of telling people you weld...they'll all ask for a welding favor at some point lol!

No drawings. Just rough sketches and then piecing it together cut by cut.